Case Repowered with Predator 212cc

First thing I actually did to the tractor after buying it and having it sit around for a year or more, was to work on a fork attachment for the 3pt. The 3pt did not come with any of the arms, just the rockshaft, cylinder, and the mounting base those sit on. Not wanting to actually spend any money on what i saw as a bad, maybe unworkable idea of ​​building my own 3pt arms, I found a way to use a couple of things i had as proof of concept and if they survived further than that, great ! Namely, track/panhard bars from a couple of different cars. One i believe was a track bar from an ~05 Mustang, and one was for an 80s-90s Chrysler fwd K-car (which i own several of, mostly turbocharged). The reason i picked these is because almost immediately after buying the tractor, I had bought a 3-pt trailer hitch frame for it to build pallet forks onto, and it came with CAT1 pins. The Case is CAT0 originally, but I figured if i was going to be building my own arms id better build them for CAT1 since that type of hardware is so much more widely available. The two trackbars had bushed ends that correlated to CAT0 (chrysler) and CAT1 (ford) pin sizes, once the inner sleeve of the bushings was pressed out. Once i cut those bars in half, i had two tractor ends and two implement ends. Some assembly required!

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Wood Bumper

To remove the inner bushing sleeves, I blew a propane torch flame through the inner sleeve to heat it up and ‘release’ the bond of rubber to steel, then pushed them out in my shop press. Im aware that these are a poor substitute for a spherical joint like what’s supposed to be here, but i suspected it might be good enough and last a little while before I bought something nicer. One of the reasons I wanted to build my own arms anyway was to pull the attachment as close to the tractor as possible to increase the ability of lifting of the 3pt. The arms ended up much shorter than Cat1 arms, but turned out to be about the exact same as stock cat0 Case arms, so the lift was really just ‘not decreased’.

Anyway, if you want to hook cat0 inner to cat1 outer AND bring it as close to the tractor as possible and not hit the tire, the arms had to be curved. I did that by bending them over some.. round objects in my press. Such as a piston. Well two pistons, one from an engine and one from a brake caliper. Couple of bushing driver handles for good measure. 😂

Wood Trigger Bumper Air gun Machine tool

Wood Musical instrument Gas Automotive exterior Bumper

Did some bends on the other ends too but took no pictures. Anyway, since the Chrysler arm was an open U-channel (the reason I have extra k-car track bars around is i weld them together like this into a single boxed section to reinforce them because they bend easily) i was able to simply hammer it down over the boxed Ford bar to ‘nest’ them together before welding.

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Wheel Automotive exterior

On the left you can see me trying to get some rough lengths figured out before making the bends and welding. I had to leave that much of a gap between tire and because the short arms brought the implement closer to the tires as it rose up. You can also see my intent to use swaybar endlinks as lift links. On the right you can see one arm bent and welded to basically its final form, and see how close I had the implement to the tire when raised. The flex of the bushings allowed enough movement that I could slip the arms on and off the implement pins.

Ok so what about that weird metal thing under the off-the-shelf receiver hitch frame? Well, I was helping an uncle clean out his shop and came across a U-shaped piece made of C-channel that he had built to mount a large stainless cooktop to an outdoor countertop but never finished. I had the thought that it looked the right size and roughly strong enough to be some crappy pallet forks, so i took it home rather than letting him scrap it. What about the black things? Those are front too hooks off a Jeep Commander. I had two thoughts when it came to how to attach it to the receiver hitch frame. I still wanted to be able to use the hitch, so i could either A: make the forks removable from the frame, or B: allow them to pivot upright to the frame when not in use. I decided that while having the pivot forks upward would be nice, the forks were also heavy enough that whether they were permanently attached or came off, either way I was going to be wrestling with them and didn’t want to deal with that. I figured that If I protected the exposed threads of the Cat1 pins, I could simply back the pins up under some hooks on the U-frame, pick it up and drive off with it and also drive out from under it when i was done with it without having to manually lift the thing myself. I had thought to have something hook from the back of the U-frame to the back of the tractor which would cause the frame to pivot upwards somewhere near the top of the 3pt travel, but i had visions of accidentally popping myself in the back of the head with over-traveling pallet forks and dying a terrible death unless I built some kind of stops for it, and I couldn’t think of an easy way to make that linkage ‘self attaching’ like the hooks, so i just abandoned the self-stowing idea completely.

The reason there is a drawbar and hitch ball mounted backwards through the receiver is that I figured out if i took the drawbar that was probably going to be hanging out the back of the receiver anyway (which is not the one pictured) and put it in through the front, the U frame contacting the drawbar/hitch ball would stop the Uframe from drooping downwards enough to contact the 3pt arms, while also allowing me to drive out from under the hooks when i set the U frame down. Unfortunately I don’t have a pic of that happening right now, but ill try to remember to take one.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

Pic on the left shows the full view of this u-frame thing hanging on the hooks (resting on stands because the drawbar thing is not in in this pic). The pic on the right i zoomed in and drew the motion path that lets you back in and pick this up, or put it down and drive out from under the hooks. The hooks are angled slightly away from each other to form a ‘funnel’ so that you don’t have to be totally precise backing up to it. It self-centers as you push into it.

Continued in next post because im uploading too many pics for one post…

Leave a Comment